Checking my CPU temperature
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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:04    Post subject: Checking my CPU temperature
How do I check my CPU temperature? Im planning to invest in a CPU cooler but before I do, Id like to get a temperature reading with my current stock cooler to see how good/bad that thing really is



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Mortibus




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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:05    Post subject:
 Spoiler:
 
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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:10    Post subject:
Are you serious or joking? lol I want a temperature reading in windows please!



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Mortibus




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Location: .NL
PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:13    Post subject:
hahaha u actually thought.... lol

ok now srsly altho it's been posted like 100's of times in hw section u can get it too http://www.lavalys.com/
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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:14    Post subject:
http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

I use this and as well as the vista/7 plugin Very Happy


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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:47    Post subject:
Alright sweet! Now my question is, what kind of temperatures SHOULD my CPU be around?

I just played Mirror's Edge and my current CPU temps are 36C, Low=34C, High=50C



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moosenoodles




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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 18:49    Post subject:
those are standard and fine temps.... idle no game 34 36,, under load 50 55 somtimes higher for hardcore games, or badly coded ones.. and sometimes lower ...

dont sweat it...
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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 19:21    Post subject:
I never hit higher than 55C btu that's OC'd.

You good


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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 19:31    Post subject:
Ah ok so I guess I dont need a cpu cooler right now? :/ I just wanted an excuse to get this cooler

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/1/

I came across this yesterday. It even looks good:


Damn I really want it!! Very Happy



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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 19:46    Post subject:
that's the corsair H50 in the corsair obsidian case, both of what im getting for my new build.

The only bad thing about the H50 is they made it so you have to use that fan as an intake, so you'll be sucking in air from the back, which disturbs the normal push pull method since the spot where it's mounted is normally an exhaust spot, so you'll have to tinker around with the fan setup a bit.

On that cause it shouldn't be too difficult, theres 3 120mm spots on top of the case so you could set them to exhaust.


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Werelds
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 20:21    Post subject:
SpykeZ wrote:
On that cause it shouldn't be too difficult, theres 3 120mm spots on top of the case so you could set them to exhaust.

Not sure if the Obsidian has any intakes in the front, but just leave those as intakes if it does; natural air pressure will take care of the rest if you got the top ones set to exhaust Smile
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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 16th Dec 2009 22:41    Post subject:
SpykeZ wrote:
that's the corsair H50 in the corsair obsidian case, both of what im getting for my new build.

The only bad thing about the H50 is they made it so you have to use that fan as an intake, so you'll be sucking in air from the back, which disturbs the normal push pull method since the spot where it's mounted is normally an exhaust spot, so you'll have to tinker around with the fan setup a bit.

On that cause it shouldn't be too difficult, theres 3 120mm spots on top of the case so you could set them to exhaust.


Yea man I read that too yesterday and I was like WTF. But read that link I gave:

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/6/

Scroll down a bit to the "what if" part of the article. Apparently the H50 using the exhaust setup (with 2 fans) gives lower temp readings than the fucked up intake setup that they tell you in the instructions. Even if I had to use the horrible intake setup, I have 3 other fans in my case (top, side, front) all of which can be flipped around just in case



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Paintface




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PostPosted: Thu, 17th Dec 2009 11:52    Post subject:
try running 2 orthos instances and set affinity to first 2 and last 2 cores and then check your temps again, if under 70C you are fine
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Ci2e




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PostPosted: Sun, 20th Dec 2009 11:57    Post subject:
 Spoiler:
 


Looks cool but seems a bit overkill - I wonder how that thing never needs the liquid coolant replaced. With standard water cooling solutions you have to replace the water probably at least once a year. Hell if I'm not happy with the Fenrir I could always return it within the first 30 days I'm sure. We'll have to see...
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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Sun, 20th Dec 2009 17:42    Post subject:
Ci2e wrote:
 Spoiler:
 


Looks cool but seems a bit overkill - I wonder how that thing never needs the liquid coolant replaced. With standard water cooling solutions you have to replace the water probably at least once a year. Hell if I'm not happy with the Fenrir I could always return it within the first 30 days I'm sure. We'll have to see...


sounds like they were using special tubing and insulation to keep the water from evaporating.


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Ci2e




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PostPosted: Sun, 20th Dec 2009 17:50    Post subject:
SpykeZ wrote:
Ci2e wrote:
 Spoiler:
 


Looks cool but seems a bit overkill - I wonder how that thing never needs the liquid coolant replaced. With standard water cooling solutions you have to replace the water probably at least once a year. Hell if I'm not happy with the Fenrir I could always return it within the first 30 days I'm sure. We'll have to see...


sounds like they were using special tubing and insulation to keep the water from evaporating.


Oh okay so evaporation is the reason for recycling the water. One has to wonder after 5 years of use if no evaporation would take place...
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timechange01
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PostPosted: Tue, 22nd Dec 2009 00:05    Post subject:
Been messing around with my CPU clock quite a bit these past few days and I get a steady temperature of around 45C (55-57C on 100% load on all cores) with my cpu set to 3.7ghz, NB set to 2.6ghz and HT set to 2.4ghz. But the cpu fan rpm rose by a lot and it was becoming annoying so I clocked back to stock speeds for now. Used Prime95 and Everest for checking stability while overclocked.

Anyways so I placed an order for the H50 last night. I believe it arrives tomorrow. Gonna see for myself what that baby can do. Im planning to leave the pre-applied thermal compound on the copper plate. If needed then Il replace it with new themal compound but I heard they used good quality paste on there so we'l see how it performs



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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Tue, 22nd Dec 2009 00:06    Post subject:
make sure your running memtest outside of windows as well


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Slizza




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PostPosted: Tue, 22nd Dec 2009 01:02    Post subject:
55-57 at 100% load on a overclocked phenom II X4 sounds far too low.

You should check with realtemp aswell.

I push upto 70 in prime under full load cooled with a titan fenrir.

Unless you live in like alaska in a igloo lol


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timechange01
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PostPosted: Tue, 22nd Dec 2009 18:10    Post subject:
Yea definitely I plan to run memtest once I overclock again since I haven't done so already. And yes 55-57 on full 100% load on all cores. I use coretemp like Spykez suggested and I like it a lot. I dont trust everest temperature readings lol although everything else about everest is really nice. CPU fan was at 4500s

At stock (3.4ghz) I get around the same temperatures as the OC (3.7ghz) but the fan rpm is at around 2500s. Much much quieter. This is why I had to clock back to stock because the noise level was quite irritating. It sounded like an air conditioner.

Also, my case has relatively good airflow. I have 2 intake fans and 2 exhaust fans both of which are just inches from the CPU fan. And the entire front of my case is ventilated.

The newegg package arrives in about 20 minutes so I will post my H50 results later tonight or tommorow (along with some pics of that sexy cooler Very Happy)



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Mortibus




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PostPosted: Tue, 22nd Dec 2009 21:20    Post subject:
trust it or not but core temp using same reading technique as everest, direct from mobo's bios
RealTemp however reading out of some ass adding +-10 degrees
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Slizza




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PostPosted: Wed, 23rd Dec 2009 01:46    Post subject:
I thought those chips ran hotter than the i7 chips?
So figured the 55-57 at full load with a overclock and a stock cooler was far too low a reading to be real.
While mine hits 70 at full load with a great cooler.


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timechange01
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PostPosted: Wed, 23rd Dec 2009 10:40    Post subject:
Perhaps its because you raised your clock speed from 2.66ghz to 3.8 whereas I raised mine from 3.4 to only 3.7. I still have the stock cooler on it because for some fucked up reason, the UPS gus never showed up and on the tracking info, it says delivery attempt was made at "18:36" and I was "unavailable to sign." Which is rather strange because I was sitting by the window all day long waiting for the mofo to arrive with the package..

Anyways I explored Everest a bit more today. I was only looking at the everest temps in the stability tester before. I didnt realize theres an entire section in everest on temperature sensors. Quite cool I must admit Smile



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Ci2e




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PostPosted: Wed, 23rd Dec 2009 13:03    Post subject:
What the hell if I were you I'd be calling UPS and asking them wtf Question

It's almost as if they have the wrong shipping address, the tracking information is falsified, or they just hate you! That is if you were really by the window all day Rolling Eyes


Posted: 22 Dec 2009 12:10
timechange01 wrote:
The newegg package arrives in about 20 minutes so I will post my H50 results later tonight or tommorow (along with some pics of that sexy cooler Very Happy)


timechange01 wrote:
the UPS gus never showed up and on the tracking info, it says delivery attempt was made at "18:36" and I was "unavailable to sign." Which is rather strange because I was sitting by the window all day long waiting for the mofo to arrive with the package..


Approx. 6 hour window between your post and the posted attempted delivery Question
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Sin317
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PostPosted: Wed, 23rd Dec 2009 13:57    Post subject:
i have the same issue with DHL all the time ... in the tracking it says "not here" or something, yet no note or anything (as it should have) of them having passed or anything ... like yeah, i have to guess you tried to deliver or what ? Parcel services suck ...
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timechange01
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PostPosted: Thu, 24th Dec 2009 01:38    Post subject:
I was sitting quietly next to the window all day long yesterday. The room was also completely silent it couldn't have been that I didn't hear the doorbell. Even when I went to the bathroom, I left the door open lol just incase but that guy just NEVER showed up. Right after 1pm I had a feeling he wouldn't come because the UPS usually always comes to my house between 11:30am to 1pm. I was a little pissed but then again Im on vacation so I dont have much goin on lol and so it finally came today, very early (earlier than any other UPS delivery Ive ever had before). The guy came at around 11:30am

Anyways so installing this thing almost turned into a nightmare. Not because of the cooler itself. This is what happened...

The thermal compound that was pre-applied to the stock AMD cooler formed some sort of crazyglue-like material. I know thermal paste becomes hard when the heatsink is cool Im not a total moron... but this shit just would NOT come off. So I unlocked the heatsink but it wouldn't come off the CPU. The CPU was locked into the socket. So I figured the paste would eventually start to peel if I pull the heatsink with a bit more force. That pile of shit pulled the entire CPU out of the locked socket.....

Some of the end pins got bent. Not to mention it was still firmly glued onto the fucking stock cooler. So I took a heatgun and aimed it at only the heatsink and then eventually it just got hot enough for me to peel the CPU off that fucker. Next I was faced with the challenge of straightening out the damn CPU pins, not to mention the thing was burning hot when I peeled it off the heatsink with my fingers. So then I let it cool off for several minutes and then ran a credit card through the rows of pins to try and straighten that shit out. It was so fucked and bent that it wouldn't even go back in the socket

Anyways so I finally straightened out all the pins after running the card through the rows several times and then the thing was able to go back into the socket and then i was able to carry on with the Corsair H50 installation;

First of all the instructions that it comes with, are the absolute WORST. Basically it has like 6 unclear pictures and thats all. I guess they thought pictures would make it more simple but it actually made it more confusing. Apparently you must have a brain to install this thing lol.

Heres an example of what the instructions show...picture shows that you install the bracket and then you put the head of the cooler onto the bracket and twist it to lock it.This was definitely not how you do it. I had to loosen the bracket screws, insert the cooler head and twist it into place and THEN tighten the bracket screws to lock that thing onto my CPU.

It does require you to take your entire mobo out to install the backplate. I left the pre-applied thermal compound on the copper plate.... Laughing I trust Corsair! Anyways so after installing it all, this thing looks nice. Had to take a few pics lol





This is the AMD stock cooler than came with my CPU:



With the stock AMD cooler, I was able to overclock to 3.7ghz with okay temperatures but the fan rpm would be ridiculously high. Since the fan would reach around max rpm with 3.7ghz, anything past 3.7 and the temperatures would begin to rise real fast. At 3.8ghz i would get like 62-65C. My room temperature thermostat is always set to 72F (22.2C) degrees.

So anyways with the new H50 cooler, I was able to clock to 4.0ghz. I can't get 4.1ghz to stay stable in everest. So I ran everest for a few minutes to check out the temps and these are the temperatures now with the H50:



Right now the CPU is chillin at 32C Cool



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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Thu, 24th Dec 2009 01:48    Post subject:
you know....your supposed to let the CPU warm up the paste before you go ripping it off....


anywho, lower your HTT down, maybe downclock your ram speed, try higher Multiplier vs higher FSB, increase voltage to the CPU


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timechange01
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PostPosted: Thu, 24th Dec 2009 02:07    Post subject:
Is my CPU damaged by the incident though? I have no idea how to find out..

and here are my current settings:
Cpu clock: 4.0ghz with 1.5volts in my bios
NB: 2.6ghz
HT: 2.4ghz
ram speed is at 1600mhz

I tried increasing CPU voltage but it didn't help. Il try lowering the HTT since i haven't tried that yet. I got 4.1.ghz to stay stable with a particular set of voltages but then I tried to go higher to 4.2ghz and tried all sorts of settings to make THAT stable and completely forgot how I got 4.1 to stay stable. I try altering FSB and see that goes as well.

At one point, my comp shut off (during a restart) and it wouldn't turn on when I pressed the power button. Had to shut off the power from the power supply and then turn it back on to get the comp to turn on again. Anybody know the cause of this? I dont think I overvolt



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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Thu, 24th Dec 2009 02:19    Post subject:
well, if it stays stable then I would say it's fine but it's very likely you could have loosened pins so be careful from here on out with it..IE don't be a retard and try ripping the damn heatsink off when it's cold.

[edit] get rid of that damned IDE would you.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010100005%2050001623%201038406820&name=SATA

I'd opt for the one that does Dual Layer dvd's


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Werelds
Special Little Man



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PostPosted: Thu, 24th Dec 2009 11:58    Post subject:
I can't believe Newegg still sell ones that don't do DVD9?! Very Happy

Anyway, you say 1.5v in the BIOS, I bloody hope that's a typo and you meant 1.4v like it shows on the screenshots Razz

For the C2 stepping, you should be using 1.425v max, for C3 it's a flat 1.4v. Stepping should show in CPU-Z or Everest's CPU info Smile
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