New build, no signal to monitor
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_SiN_
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:04    Post subject: New build, no signal to monitor
As per this thread:
http://www.nfohump.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=75384

Just built it, it starts, fans spin etc. but Im not getting any signal.

The mobo has a VGA port for onboard CPU graphics. The GPU has HDMI and DVI.
I've tried the HDMI (to the monitors DVI) and the VGA on the mobo, but no dice. The videocard has both PCIe power connectors plugged in.

Anything I've missed, or any tips?
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JBeckman
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:14    Post subject:
Maybe check all cabling again just to be certain and try to re-seat the GPU and other components maybe like the RAM sticks.

Otherwise I don't really know what could be causing this unless it's a faulty card.
(I've had that happen once, it's unfortunate but usually easy to RMA and replace.)
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KillerCrocker




Posts: 20503

PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:14    Post subject:
So its clreadly a monitor fault, if You've tried gpu and mobogpu.

Maybe monitor doesnt automaticly detects inputs and You need to manually select them in its osd?
if not then just rma it


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LeoNatan
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:18    Post subject:
Take a look at the motherboard, is there a two digit LCD display? Or the beeps?

I had something similar, where when powering up, no image would show up, and boot would not proceed. Ended up discovering my case was somehow short circuiting
my motherboard. Try taking the motherboard out of the case, put it on some newspaper (etc.) and see if you can boot from there.

KillerCrocker wrote:
So its clreadly a monitor fault, if You've tried gpu and mobogpu.

False Smile Could mean motherboard does not reach the GPU initialization process, so it doesn't matter if use onboard or GPU.
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JBeckman
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:29    Post subject:
Isn't that why you often have this little ground cable attached to some part of the case or what it might be?

It probably varies.
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LeoNatan
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:35    Post subject:
For me it was one of the bolts somehow doing some shit. The bought the Thermaltake case and have had no problems since. Very Happy
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KillerCrocker




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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 21:56    Post subject:
basicly if something would be wrong, mobo would signalize it in series of shor and long beeps. But If windows boots normally...


3080 | ps5 pro

Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
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tonizito
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:04    Post subject:
KillerCrocker wrote:
basicly if something would be wrong, mobo would signalize it in series of shor and long beeps. But If windows boots normally...
Not necessarily, saw it happening on some desktops and not a single beep was given. Razz

Although most of them had a simple fix:
-"Something's wrong with your GPU, is it still under warranty?"
-"No."
-"Want to buy a new GPU?"
-"Er..."
-"Or I can just switch it to your onboard GPU..."
-"You can do that? o_O"


boundle (thoughts on cracking AITD) wrote:
i guess thouth if without a legit key the installation was rolling back we are all fucking then
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LeoNatan
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:05    Post subject:
KillerCrocker wrote:
basicly if something would be wrong, mobo would signalize it in series of shor and long beeps

Basically, no.
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_SiN_
Megatron



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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:07    Post subject:
A question though, would it send signal via the videocard first, if it works? Through HDMI? That way I don't have to change ports to find if any fix works Razz


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Werelds
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:09    Post subject:
Like Leo said, take it out and run it off a cardboard box or something. Try both onboard and discrete ports as well once you've taken it out. It is not detecting an error with either GPU at least, because then you would have heard beeps, so they're not broken. A short would let it "detect" the discrete GPU but not allow it to send it enough power to display anything (75W of the GPU's power comes through the PCI-E slot itself), thus not registering it as an error.

Most motherboards automatically switch to discrete if there's one plugged in, so in order to test the onboard you'd have to take the discrete GPU out.
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KillerCrocker




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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:10    Post subject:
There are exceptions. So many years with pc problems, but there is always something new isnt there?


3080 | ps5 pro

Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
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_SiN_
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:31    Post subject:
Well, that was easy I just plugged in a DVI cable to the top DVI port, and then it worked.. But shouldn't it send signal via the HDMI port right from boot? I dunno, maybe it's the cable or something.

Now the interesting thing is, the case isn't the one I posted in the other thread, it's a Lian-Li PC-V351B Very Happy I'm quite curious to see what temps it'll be running at Smile I think I'll leave the side panels off though, might aswell since the case itself will be hidden... Maybe upgrade the CPU fan/heatsink later.



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JBeckman
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 22:33    Post subject:
I thought that was the first you tried after reading your first post about trying even the VGA cable and both GPU configurations, regardless it's nice to see it solved, maybe the HDMI adapter was faulty or something.
(Or if the cable was HDMI and DVI maybe that was faulty like you said, who knows. Razz )
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_SiN_
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PostPosted: Tue, 27th Mar 2012 23:10    Post subject:
Tried HDMI on the 570 and VGA on the mobo, never DVI, for some unknown reason (maybe because I had to look for a DVI to DVI cable in one of my boxes of a hundred cables grinhurt)

Anyway, so far so good, the basics installed (browser, drivers etc). Gonna do some game & temp testing tomorrow Smile


Watercooled 5950X | AORUS Master X570 | Asus RTX 3090 TUF Gaming OC | 64Gb RAM | 1Tb 970 Evo Plus + 2Tb 660p | etc etc
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_SiN_
Megatron



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PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 18:24    Post subject:
Just to update a little - the 570 maxed out at 73C, and that was at 60-something percent of the fan speed, when running FurMark for 15 minutes, the 2500k also around that temp when running Intel BurnIn - not running cool, but not dangerous either, right? And let's be realistic, when are you ever running something 100% constantly for that "long"..

The cpu could do with a better thermal paste and fan/heatsink, but other than that.. I'm pretty sure it'll run fine Smile


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PumpAction
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PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 18:27    Post subject:
I thought it's bad for the sys temp if the case is open. Keep the case closed and install proper BIG fans that suck in the air from the front and throw it out on the back/sides!


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_SiN_
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PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 18:30    Post subject:
Oh, I forgot to say, this is with the side panels mounted again Smile It has two 120mm in the front, like just in front of the mobo and gpu, that blowd over everything and out the back - the case is so short though, that you cant fit two fans in the back to help suck the air out.
Here's an image I found on Google that shows it with one side panel off



You see one of the two 120mm fans to the left, blowing over the mobo and cpu. Though I didn't let any cables run in front of them like that, seems dumb
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KillerCrocker




Posts: 20503

PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 22:30    Post subject:
I would personally set it to suck air out. The fresh air will be sucked by vents automaticly.

Simple enough - to check if it is efficent, just run the pc with hwmonitor (or whatever suits You) for and hour or half and then take the side panel off and see if temps will get any lower or higher.

If they get lower, change direction of a fan Smile

The more/less perfect situation is that inside case temperature is as cool as outside (or lower if possible)


3080 | ps5 pro

Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
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MinderMast




Posts: 6172

PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 22:41    Post subject:
Kinda works both ways... push enough cool air in and warm air will get pushed out by the pressure.

Edit: My opinion would be that pushing is preferable to pulling for cooling (if I had to choose just one). Especially given the size of the case, I imagine the fan will just push the air straight through.
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tonizito
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PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 22:46    Post subject:
MinderMast wrote:
Kinda works both ways... push enough cool air in and warm air will get pushed out by the pressure.
Wasn't a 2:1 ratio the norm to get optimal results?
As in for every 1 fan pulling the air out have another 2 pulling air in, this if your PSU itself already pulls some air out.

And front fans, which are usually closer to the bottom of the case should preferably be pulling the air in, while top/side/back fans that are closer to the case's upper area should be pulling air out.
I think.


boundle (thoughts on cracking AITD) wrote:
i guess thouth if without a legit key the installation was rolling back we are all fucking then
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todd72173




Posts: 2403

PostPosted: Wed, 28th Mar 2012 23:28    Post subject:
air should be pushed front to back.
front fans push to rear
rear fans push air out of rear


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