New CPU cooler, very high idle temps, burn-in period needed?
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 19:55    Post subject: New CPU cooler, very high idle temps, burn-in period needed?
Hey guys!

I finally got around to fitting my Noctua NH-U12p cooler and everything went great. I used the included, and often rated better than AS-5, NT-H1 thermal paste and seated the cooler exactly as specified with zero issues. The problem is, my machine is now idling at a full 14c HOTTER than it was with the STOCK cooler.

On my stock cooler, pushing my E7200 at 3.4Ghz, I got 40-44c idle and 55-65c load. Now, with this new cooler - which is supposedly one of the best you can buy according to numerous reviews\benchmarks - the idle temperature is 51-56c and it loads at 70c.

I've got it running a single 120mm in a pull configuration, pulling cool air from the inside the case (fed by a front 120mm and a side 120mm intake) and pulling it over the heatsink and out towards the rear 120mm exhaust. So what's wrong with it? Does it REALLY need a burn-in period for the thermal paste to start working properly .. or is something fucked?

Thanks.
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Mortibus




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Location: .NL
PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 20:17    Post subject:
wtf that burn-in crap, if it shows current temps the way they are they will stay that way, in time more dust absorbtion will make it even hotter, so yeah something is fooked
either u applied too much thermal grease or fan speed is too low, there is also a possbility that radiator doesn't sit very tide, take your pick

considerably how crappy stock cooler really is noctua should perform much better
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bushwacka




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Location: Vienna
PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 21:03    Post subject:
yeah check the heatsink mounting, can't be much other than that.

oh and try reversing the fan. for example, i've got an old thermaltake sonic tower with the fan "sandwitched" in between. the side of the heatsink where the fan pulls air through it is quite a bit hotter than the one he blows through, just tested it. so if your temps go down with the fan pushing air over the heatsink (even though you've just fucked up your airflow Very Happy ), you at least know where the problem lies. Wink
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 21:04    Post subject:
I applied the amount they told me to... a dot roughly 5mm big. The heatsink is seated perfectly, screwed and clamped down, sturdy as a piece of iron. Fan speed is running at 1400rpm (which, apparently, is 100rpm faster than the fucking thing is SUPPOSED to run)

Something is fucked with this pos cooler Sad


Idling at 47-50c, which is STILL hotter than my old stock cooler.
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Mortibus




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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 21:25    Post subject:
did u tried to put your stock cooler back to see if it still shows u same temps as it used to?
also how do u monitor your temps, bios or software?
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 21:28    Post subject:
I haven't put the stock cooler back yet, but I'm going to in the morning and I'm binning this expensive - but utterly fucking useless - paper weight.

As for checking temps, I use software and BIOS. Both agree, same temps. Idling right now at 48c. FORTY FUCKING EIGHT! IDLE!!

Fuck you Noctua.
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Mortibus




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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 22:00    Post subject:
hehehe should've gone arctic freezer pro 7, 100% guaranteed coolnes and uber cheapnes
keeps my e6600@3ghz idle 33, load 45
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 22:18    Post subject:
Removed cooler, wiped paste clean, reapplied (again, just a dot as per instructions) and reseated the cooler. I even switched my 90mm top exhaust to an intake just to aid airflow. Same idle temp, but now it doesn't go over 60c load.

STILL not acceptable, not considering how "awesome111" this cooler is supposed to be.
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SpykeZ




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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 22:42    Post subject:
if you used arctic silver then yes, you will need a burn in period. It takes a few days to a week for it to properly work itself in.

When your done with your computer, turn it off, play some games, turn it off, play some games turn it off, the heating up and cooling down helps align it's molecules. Their site says 200 hours for it to properly

From their site...

Quote:

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.


You'll see your temps gradually fall. So more than likely, it's not your cooler.


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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Wed, 18th Mar 2009 23:26    Post subject:
I used Noctua NT-H1, bud. Most reviews say it doesn't need burn in, like AS-5 and MX-2 Sad

Right now it's idling at 48c ... and that's definitely not right for an "award winning" cooler, especially not when the stock cooler that came with my E7200 was 6c cooler.
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SpykeZ




Posts: 23710

PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 03:09    Post subject:
I'd personally gone with zalman.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2008/01/20/noctua_nh-u12p/4

pretty much the same as the nwefrhew what the fuck ever name.

Have you tried using arctic silver? from the test comparison I read the shit only did 1 degree difference. Or at least give the stuff a week to burn in and properly seat itself, it may claim it doesn't need a time or anything but...it wouldn't hurt to try.


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KrAzY-KaMeL




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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 11:08    Post subject:
Best bet is to use a different TIM. My Q6600 idles at 30C even at 3.4Ghz so something is definitely wrong with your setup there.

Did you check to see if the base of the heatsink was machined well? And when you removed it the first time was it making good contact?
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JackQ
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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 14:42    Post subject:
Quote:
sabin1981
Banned

why did he got banned?
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todd72173




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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 14:45    Post subject:
Mine idles at 30C as well.
Too bad he was banned. Lots of active participation here from him.


RYZEN 5 2600|RADEON 570| |ASRock X370 Killer|DDR4@2800Mhz||Corsair SPEC-05 Case|AOC G2590FX 24.5''144hz 1ms|
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VGAdeadcafe




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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 15:36    Post subject:
todd72173 wrote:
Mine idles at 30C as well.
Too bad he was banned. Lots of active participation here from him.

Hehe, it's not like he got permabanned, chill guys. Probaly a 24-hour ban or something.
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 15:49    Post subject:
Me? Naw, I usually get 1 or 2 bans a month. Comes with being so vocal and having strong opinions ^_^

Anyway, I still don't have a fucking clue as to why this cooler is performing so badly (I'm not going to rage about it anymore, done all my raging on my usual forum) but needless to say, it's broken. There is simply no other explanation for why it's not working -- or rather, not working as well as the stock cooler. The contact between the baseplate and the heatspreader is absolute. Rock solid stable on the motherboard, screwed and clamped in tighter than a nun's vagina - and exactly the right amount of TIM applied. I've tried the included, and oft-lauded, Noctua NH-T1 ... and I also tried some of my other AS-5. No joy. The cooler is absolutely ICE cold to the touch, so I guess that's what's wrong; it's just not drawing temps away from the CPU.

Currently idling at 45c and full loading (Orthos, 2hrs. Turn off for 30mins, back on and into Orthos for another 2hrs) at 65c. Almost exactly the same temps as my stock cooler.

The reason I bought this cooler was to further my clocking, so I tried that. Currently running at 3.4Ghz with 1.18v (love the E7200 Very Happy) and it ran, Orthos stable, at 3.8Ghz with 1.25v ... but temps were just shy of 77c load. NOT good for a 45nm chip.



.... so basically; I'm out of ideas guys. Truly out.

Here's my post from my regular forum;

Quote:

First few shots are from last night's application, following are from my subsequent cleaning of the HSF and CPU heatspreader (I used white spirits and soft tissue until they were gleaming) I then, again, followed the instructions to the letter and put more thermal paste on. Reseated the heatsink, twisted it back and forth as much as the mounting bracket would allow (barely 2 degrees either side) and screwed it down tight.

The contact with the CPU is absolute. The clamps are as tight as possible. The heat paste is done to the best of my ability and the directions given. Still the heatsink is absolutely ice-cold ... it's just not drawing heat from the heatspreader on the CPU.

Cheap, Taiwanese-made, bullshit.


I'm sticking to Zalman or AC in the future.

 Spoiler:
 

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Spiderman
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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 16:53    Post subject:
dude where art your dust bunny's ?
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Thu, 19th Mar 2009 16:55    Post subject:
I have none. I keep my case clean inside (just sucks that the cables from the PSU are so thick .. have to stuff them in the empty DVD drive bays to keep them out the way) Wink
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 11:05    Post subject:
Even though the heatsink is still ice-cold, idle temps are now 36-39c (depending on whether or not I have the window open in the flat) and full load (Orthos and, hehe, playing UT99 at the same time) 55-56c.

I are confuzzled. How can the temps be lower when the heatsink isn't drawing them away from the chip itself?
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KrAzY-KaMeL




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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 11:10    Post subject:
Have you ruled out your temp reading source? Do you use CoreTemp for example or your bios?

That heatsink didn't do too bad in this extravagant test of a large assorment of coolers:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=285&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=15
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 12:17    Post subject:
BIOS, CoreTemp, Asus's Probe II and even Everest. All say the same.

It still doesn't explain why the heatsink, including baseplate in contact with CPU heatspreader, is ICE cold .. not even luke warm :-\
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VGAdeadcafe




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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 12:48    Post subject:
If you never reach 60c, then you're good Very Happy
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 12:51    Post subject:
Why 60c? I've been over that many times on my stock cooler (and a few days ago, this POS wasn't cooling at all .. and load temp was 67c)

The thermal limit of the E7200 is 74.5c, which - so far - I haven't gone past.

I wanted to check the idle temps when the window was closed and now it's 40-41 with 57-59c full load. I want better, naturally, but it seems this burn-in period ISN'T a myth .. as temps have dropped 5-9c since last night.

(yet strangely enough, even though Intel list the thermal limit at 74.5c .. the TJMax is 100c. So having 65-70c load really shouldn't be that scary - right?)
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tonizito
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 14:00    Post subject:
sabin1981 wrote:
(yet strangely enough, even though Intel list the thermal limit at 74.5c .. the TJMax is 100c. So having 65-70c load really shouldn't be that scary - right?)
By thermal limit you mean the Thermal Specification field in this page, right?
http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sSpec=SLA3F#

If so, I think that you have nothing to worry about those temps on load. From what I've seen online, as long as you stay 15-20c away from the TJmax temperature, your CPU will live a long and healthy life.

For example, that E4400 I've linked to, tends to hit 70-75c on those hotter days (it's overclocked, too) and for 2 years now I haven't had a single problem... even if my idle temps are higher than usual (40-45c).


boundle (thoughts on cracking AITD) wrote:
i guess thouth if without a legit key the installation was rolling back we are all fucking then
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 14:13    Post subject:
Aye, that's the one .. thanks! I knew it was "thermal" something, I just couldn't quite recall what it was.

There's so many horror stories about running the 45nm chips near, or at, 75c are - it was getting a bit worrisome. Cool, that means I can (after I've given the TIM a week or so to burn-in) start clocking my chip properly. I had it at 3.8Ghz with 1.25v and it was stable after 2hrs of Orthos .. but I didn't like the temps being near 70c load. I guess I don't have to worry about it as they've dropped now, and should continue to drop, as well as still being 30c from TJmax.

Besides, if it dies; it dies. I can always buy another one seeing as how the E7200 is dirt cheap now ^_^
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NForce2007
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 19:21    Post subject:
i used to have akasa 965 cooler very similar to the freezer pro 7,the cooling performance was ok while idle & under light load (overclocked quad cpu) but once the 4xcpu's go under full load (100%) the temsp easly reached 70c on each cpu & keept on rising slowly so wasn't happy with its cooling performance & bought the thermalright ultima with 6 heat pipes the idle temps are almost the same but where it really shines is under full load. Wink

if you want to know if your new heatsink is making proper contact with your cpu remove the fan & within few seconds your entire heatsink should be hot if its not then your heatsink base needs to be lapped to make a full contact with your cpu. good luck.


"Support Talented Developers" "ATI Rules" "Proud Owner of PS3"
Q6600 @ 3.5Ghz | 8GB DDR2 1070 | Gigabyte EP45 DS3 | Sapphire HD 4870 | WD 640 HDD | X-Fi Gamer | Corsair TX850 | CM690 +7x120mm Fans| 360 Wireless JPad | LG M227WD (16:9).
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sabin1981
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 19:34    Post subject:
You know, that's NOT a bad idea actually! Thanks, I'll give that a try later Smile
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NForce2007
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PostPosted: Fri, 20th Mar 2009 20:14    Post subject:
sabin1981 wrote:
You know, that's NOT a bad idea actually! Thanks, I'll give that a try later Smile


you do that first & if the heatsink goes "hot" without a fan like mine does then you can improve cooling by adding another fan on the opposite side of the heatsick to pull the hot air away qiucker (does improve cooling a good deal). BUT if you find the heatsink to remain cool without its fan then you can go for the lapping option (it will reduce temps anyway when cpu is lapped...check youtube for videos). personally i think your heatsink base is not 100% flat but it could be your cpu's base so have a good look first & good luck.


"Support Talented Developers" "ATI Rules" "Proud Owner of PS3"
Q6600 @ 3.5Ghz | 8GB DDR2 1070 | Gigabyte EP45 DS3 | Sapphire HD 4870 | WD 640 HDD | X-Fi Gamer | Corsair TX850 | CM690 +7x120mm Fans| 360 Wireless JPad | LG M227WD (16:9).
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KrAzY-KaMeL




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Location: City Of Compton
PostPosted: Sat, 21st Mar 2009 01:11    Post subject:
How about you screw all this nonsense and buy a different heatsink. They are cheap and replaceable, I go through them like I do shoes.
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SpykeZ




Posts: 23710

PostPosted: Sat, 21st Mar 2009 01:16    Post subject:
one of zalmans best (ones a 110mm and the other is a 92mm)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118019
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223

I have this one and personally I love it, it blows a massive amount of air through the fins and across the board

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118114


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